Seeking Shangri-La

My associate Ram Chhetri of Himalayan Dreams, in Kathmandu, Nepal and myself boarded a DRUK Airline flight from New Delhi to Paro, Bhutan. DRUK, meaning dragon in Bhutanese, is Bhutan’s state-owned airlines. Not knowing what to expect we were pleasantly surprise to be on board a brand new AirBus plane for the 55 minute flight to Paro, Bhutan.

The 55 minute flight carries one along the majestic peaks that sprawl across northern Nepal, with the granddaddy of them all, Mt. Everest, poking its head up above the clouds. On the inbound flight we found ourselves sitting on the left side of the plane away from the spectacular scenery. It was something we remedied coming back to Kathmandu on our return. The DRUK pilots make sure that the route carries the plane along this wonderful sight and many cameras click as the plane flies along these majestic mountains.

Paro, Bhutan’s second largest city, lies stretched along a valley high up in the Himalayas. The airport, classified as the 4th most beautiful in the world, has a very short runway. Because of this, jets must have a short landing ability. This was evidenced as we landed and the plane braked dramatically hard immediately on contact with the runway. Paro Airport has no instrument landing equipment, therefore for takeoff or landing the pilots must have visual contact with the runway and the surrounding mountains. Consequently, if there are clouds, fog, or rain and the visibility is limited, the flights will neither take off nor land!

Once on the ground, it is amazing how quickly deplaning passengers take out cameras and begin taking pictures of the airport buildings. Built in strict, Bhutanese style with whitewashed sides and elaborately painted and decorated eaves, window sashes and doorways the buildings stand out in beautiful contrast to the green mountains that soar up on each side of the airport.

An initial difficulty occurred upon walking into the elaborately decorated interior halls of the airport. The euphoria of a 55 minute plane ride, the touchdown and the beautiful airport were quickly lost as one plane load of tourists formed into 4 lines: one for Bhutanese citizens and SAARC members (South Asian Association of Regional Cooperation), one for diplomats, and 2 lines for deplaning tourists. The lines would have been fine, but it soon became apparent that here was a massive slowdown. Like the airport without modern instrument landing equipment, there were NO computers for checking on passengers and Visas and it all had to be done by hand. It took my associate and me over an hour to get through, and we were the last two out of the custom’s lines. The only positive was that we had no trouble identifying our luggage as they were the only two on the baggage carousel!

At this point our major worry was that our guide and driver would have given up and left. But, to our delight, our guide and driver were there and waiting patiently for us to leave the airport. Our guide was an experienced 20 year old girl, and she made a wonderful guide and traveling companion for the next 4 days. Her name was soon shortened by us to Ashley or Ash. Our driver, who’s English was limited, became Joe and his expert driving of mountain roads made our travels even more enjoyable.
Here the trip began and we were about to experience the awesome beauty and magnificent atmosphere that is Bhutan.

Our drive out of Paro took us over the mountains along well tended roads, with little traffic. This fact of well-paved roads and little traffic was not lost on my associate who was accustomed to the poorly maintained roads and thunderous traffic of Kathmandu.

The other aspect of the trip over the mountains was the quiet compared to Kathmandu. No honking horns or revving motorbikes; the calm, quiet roads winding along the hillsides toward the capitol of Thimphu seemed worlds away from almost anywhere.

As we wound along the sides of mountains we could look to our left and watch a beautifully clean river moving in a seemingly leisurely direction below the road. On occasion there would be a local woman selling fresh asparagus, a fact I noted my wife would have caused us to stop. After about an hour’s drive we entered a great “Y” shaped valley that is the location of Thimphu, capitol of Bhutan.

First impressions usually remain with you and at this point I remember vividly thinking:
There are no skyscrapers! There are no buildings over about 5 or 6 stories high! I am not aware of great cranes thrusting their massive heads into the sky announcing the creation of some megalithic structure soon to follow. The architecture is unique, Bhutanese and lovely to look at. This impression would remain as the style of Bhutan is the same throughout the country. And as I was soon to learn, there were a few more surprises that Bhutan was about to offer up to a first time tourist!
It was interesting to watch Thimphu rise up from the valley floor as we descended from the mountain road. The river we had been following from our mountain road also rose to meet us and we were soon moving along a well-paved road into the heart of downtown Thimphu, the river tumbling merrily along beside the road.
Again, first impressions: Bhutanese architecture, white walls and gaily painted eaves and window frames, and a cantilever bridge that spanned the river, it too built in Bhutanese white and painted with bright colors and many prayer flags fluttering in the early afternoon breeze. A great Dzong, or fortress, seemed to rise up out of the ground. A beautiful sight and we were told it was a former palace that had been converted into a government building.
We were told that we would be dropped off at our hotel and given some time to rest before lunch. The hotel, right on the main street, was an older hotel and we had rooms on the fourth floor! No elevators and steep stairways to climb. As a senior citizen it was not for me, but we dutifully took to our room and sat quite quietly surveying the room. It was clean and tidy. Only problem was the long climb to get there and we were up very high in elevation. This worked for one night but our host, Karma, was very quick to accommodate our request and we were moved the next day to a very nice hotel, the Jhumolhari. We had a second floor room and all the amenities of a large, western hotel. Still no elevators, but this time on the second floor and more gently spaced stairs, there was no problem.
Our lunch was on the second floor around the corner at a place called Rosy’s. Up a flight of stairs and into a delightful restaurant. Tablecloths and cloth napkins graced each table with a vase of flowers in the center. One could order a la carte or have the buffet lunch which we chose to do. The food was good and accompanied by a very cold Bhutanese beer the luncheon was a great success. So much so that we ate there for dinner that night being left on our own.
After lunch our guide Ashika (Ashley) had the driver take us to the top of a very high mountain. We left our van and climbed even higher for a bird’s eye view of the capitol. It stretched much like Paro along a “Y” shaped valley. The only difference was more buildings, more growth and this wonderful air of serenity you feel almost all of the time. It was spectacular and we took many pictures as the hill had sparse pine trees, prayer flags and a magnificent view.

We drove halfway down the hill and stopped at the World Wildlife Federation (WWF) preserve for Bhutan’s national animal, the Takin. It is an interesting looking animal much like a cross between a goat and a yak! There is a story that a mad monk ate a goat and a yak, put the bones back together and you have a Takin! They thrive more in the colder climates but these are carefully tended in a reserve to preserve the animals along with both large and small deer. A walk around the compound is very interesting.

With our senses reeling, or mind filled with so many wonderful scenes, we ended our first day in Bhutan. We could not imagine what lay ahead for us on our second full day in this magical place.

Our second day began with a great breakfast in Rosy’s restaurant. We then joined our guide, Ashika and our driver, Joe, for a wonderful day of sightseeing around Thimphu. Our morning had started early and Ram and I wandered around the nearly deserted streets around 7 AM looking for a place to have a cup of coffee and a bite to eat. No luck. Thimphu is NOT geared to the western passion for early morning anything!

Our tour began at the textile museum. Here, on display, are the wonderful woven clothes of former kings and dignitaries. Manikins are dressed in the beautiful woven textiles, some over 100 years old. Then, to our surprise we were able to watch as weavers. Both men and women sat at ancient looms and wove the intricate and beautiful designs into fabric for clothes, purses and table runners. A gift shop was available also to purchase the beautiful works. From here we went just a few blocks and found ourselves at an art school. Here in actively running classrooms, tourists came through in large and small groups, taking pictures and just milling about. The classes are being taught and the students are working on such projects as sculpting, embroidery, sewing, metal work, design, and painting. As the tourists milled about watching, taking pictures, asking questions the students seemed un-phased by all the commotion. How they achieve such wonderful works of art is amazing! As with the textile museum there is a store that sells the art of the students to tourists and Bhutanese alike. Most striking, for me, was the fact that men and women, boys and girls were in all of the classes. It was told to me that in the past a man was not considered educated if he could not do some form of sewing!

Like all good tour guides Ashika saw to it that I was given the opportunity to shop at a handicraft store. It was fun and the myriad of handicrafts is really astonishing. There are many such stores throughout Thimphu, and there was even a woman selling her woven goods at the Takin national preserve!
Our next stop was a museum dedicated to Bhutanese farming and the way of life a hundred years ago. Most fascinating was the arrangement of a house. The smaller windows were put on the lower floor of the house. The larger windows on the upper floor are there to catch the cooler breezes. On the top was a drying floor under the roof for drying crops and fodder for animals. Even 100 years ago the Bhutanese architectural style was there, even as it is down to today.

Next was a visit to the Ministry of Medicinal Plants. Here are doctors who deal with herbal medications and it is here that many are grown and cultivated for use in Bhutan and around the world. A museum offers examples and information on many, many plants and it is an interesting place to see. There are great prayer wheels in the courtyard and many rooms for patients to be seen and treated by the doctors. There is a small fee to see the museum.

With a break for lunch, we began again. This time we found ourselves in a paper making factory. Here, wood was burned, blackened bark removed and the pulp was then shredded and mixed with water to form a base for the paper. Individual sheets are created by hand and then dried. Colors can be added and there were women pulling strips of paper into a cord like object to be used as handles on bags. I had to purchase some of this paper as it was fascinating to watch how they created the paper and then turned them into articles for sale. The habitual gift shop was there also!

Our next stop was a metal making factory. Bhutan is noted for its metal work and we found men scattered around the grounds grinding and polishing metal objects. There was not the interest in us, as in the other factories, and we found this to be the least satisfactory stop of the day. Also, no gift shop, so neither of us was tempted to buy anything!

The last two stops were dictated by me. As we approached the city from Paro I had noticed a cantilevered bridge across the river that winds through town. It was a bit back up the highway, but our guide and driver took us immediately to a point where we could cross the road and get down to the bridge. It was a wonderful looking span with two massive end towers on either side of the river. Across the river cantilevered beams moved out until they met in the center. The bridge was covered and of course the painted designs were there too. Pray flags fluttered from the bridge and groups of young people out of school crossed the bridge to newer homes across the river.

Because I was so taken with the Bhutanese manner of dress I decided I had to have one of the wonderful ghos that all the men wear. So, telling Ashika what I wanted she marched us off to a fabric store for me to pick out the fabric I wanted. Well it got to be a joke as I picked up the color I wanted and then asked how many yards would it take. Ashika said about three yards…the fabric lady said 4! So with 4 yards of cloth I was then told I had to buy a belt. The belt, beautifully hand woven, is used to hold the gho together and it creates, what I was told is the world’s largest pocket! Since there are no pockets everything goes into the front of the gho. And yes, it is true: it creates the world’s largest pocket. Then it was off to the tailor, who measured me and seemed to think perhaps there wasn’t enough fabric. By this time, I was feeling I needed a crash diet or some such thing and although I am not the slim youth I once was, I didn’t consider myself “fat” until then. However, buying the long, white cuffs and being assured I could have it in the morning, I decided I would just be happy with myself and wear the gho, all 4 yards and accessories!

That evening we were joined by our host, Karma, for dinner at the Jhumolhari. We had a great meal and Karma told us we were leaving in the morning and going to Punakha, a 6 hour drive from the capitol through the mountains. Neither Ram nor I could imagine the next great adventure that lay before us.

As the third day began we traded our delightful young guide Ashika, for Karma, our host. Along with our driver, Joe, we proceeded to leave Thimphu and head up into the mountains. Almost immediately we stopped to look at a fully restored 16th Century fort, perched on a promontory overlooking the river. It boasted the whitewashed walls and colorful painting so indicative of the Bhutanese style. The building now houses a ministry of some sort. Here is a perfect example of preservation, conservation, and an imaginative way to keep Bhutan’s past alive.

As I think of the four lane freeway across the Sierra Nevada Mountains, it is difficult to imagine the small, narrow two lane road that winds up and around, over and down the steep hillsides of Bhutan. . Mountain streams rush down toward the road, usually plunging beneath the road and with a small temple or shrine built just beside the water. In addition to the sound of the water the air is filled with the calls of hundreds of birds that live in the vast forested areas of the country. 80% preserved and untouched, these forested hills with their majestic growth of trees , ferns, and rhododendrons fill ones’ senses with the palette of the hundreds of shades of green that are surrounding the van on both sides of the road.

Our drive continued along the mountain road, stopping once for a government inspection of documents and passing few cars in either direction. At last we approached the summit at Dochu-La Pass. Here, at the top, stands a new Dzong, or fortress. In addition there is a large shrine and the air almost pulsates with the fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags. As one looked across the valley, it was shrouded in great billowing clouds of white and gray and it was as if a stream of clouds was moving along the valley, obscuring the Himalayas from view. After a respite of about 20 minutes we climbed back into the van and started again. This time we were moving down the mountains. One surprise was rounding a curve in the road and there, munching calmly away, were three yaks, totally absorbed in their meal. A great photo op I thought!
About mid way along our 6 hour drive Karma had Joe stop the van and we three climbed out and proceeded to walk while Joe drove off down the mountain. Surprised, Karma indicated it was the only way to get the feel of the mountains and also to interrupt the long drive. He was so right! The air was clear and a soft breeze rustled the tree leaves while the hundreds of birds continued their wonderful serenade to whoever was around to listen. As the road began to even out and our descent was now approaching farming lands and a larger river we pulled over to watch an archery match beside the road!

Archery is the national sport and the ancient art of shooting arrows is not lost here in Bhutan. Dressed in colorful, Bhutanese clothes the men formed two teams. There was one team at one end of a long field and the other team opposite. Not close enough for anyone to be shot, but far enough to give the competitors a chance to show their ability with shooting the arrows great distances. There was much shouting and fun as the two teams shot arrows back and forth. Surprisingly, many of the men sported beautiful, new bows and it was obvious that each man took great pride in his ability and his equipment.

As we were approaching Punakha we turned off the road and drove up a well-tended drive to an obvious hotel. The grounds were immaculate and the building neat and tidy. Our host went in and we waited in the van. It was quickly noted that there was no room for us and so we descended into Punakha.

There is not much that meets the eye as one drives toward the small town. We turned into a rather empty lot and proceeded to a large complex of buildings right beside the river. It turned out to be a completely refurbished hotel. The rooms were large and the beds comfortable. All the amenities were there including a great buffet dinner and breakfast. The most appealing for me was to hear the river rushing along outside your room and seeing the fish jumping for their meals in the evening and early morning. Truly delightful!
In the afternoon we drove along the valley floor and came upon one of the surprises of the trip; the Punakha Dzong. This massive fortress is built between two rivers. One river called the male and the other the female. When I asked which was which I was told to listen and the noisy river was determined to be the female because it chattered. Sure enough one river was very quiet and flowed in a calm manner; the other flowed in constant noise and movement.

The monastery itself was stunning. Again the whitewashed walls and colorful carved wooden window frames and door frames. Along the quiet waters of the male river there were several trees bursting with beautiful purple flowers. Set against the white walls and the ornate carvings it made a truly wonderful sight to see.
More remarkable was the great bridge that spanned the river beside the monastery. A flood had washed the old bridge away and had carried much of the river bank with it making the channel wider then it had normally been. It would take architects in Europe to design the new bridge and of course it had to be cantilevered as it had been before. The problem lay with the widened distance. However, the challenge was met and a new bridge, looking as much a part of the scenery as ever, now spans the river to the monastery. It was interesting to note that monks, young and old, Bhutanese and tourists, along with the odd dog, uses the bridge to enter and leave the monastery. It had been a wonderful day climbing to Dochu La Pass and then descending down into the town of Punakha.

A great evening lay ahead of relaxation, good talk and a delightful environment to end our day.
Having an early breakfast at the hotel, we waited for our host to appear and start the trip back to Paro. Asika, who lives in Thimphu and Joe met us at the Jhumolhari where we waited for our host. A problem suddenly arose in that our Visa was set to expire that day and we were leaving in the morning of the very next day. And so an odyssey of sorts arose, causing our host to remain in Thimphu trying to correct the problem and us after a rather long delay started back to Paro along the same mountain road we had journeyed on before. The women selling asparagus were still there, but the archers were gone and the Dochu La Pass seemed quieter as we drove past and headed for Paro.

It was a quiet ride and I think both my partner and I were realizing what a spectacular time we had enjoyed and that it was fast coming to an end. One example of the honesty of the Bhutanese was the fixing of our Visas. We stopped a short distance out from Paro and a taxi going to Thimphu took our passports so they could be delivered and fixed in Thimphu. I was a bit nervous about this, but they were delivered safely!
We came into Paro around 2 and drove past the airport along a very dusty road. This soon terminated in a small, one vehicle bridge over a small stream. After that a paved road swept past a large college and into the town of Paro itself. Unlike Thimphu which seems to climb up and down hills and spreads out over the valley, Paro tends to be on the flat with several streets running parallel to each other. Many of the same shops line these streets with some elegant carvings decorating the storefronts and windows. There tended to be less color here, I thought, but the valley, as we drove out of town opened up into a beautiful countryside. The architecture was the same and there was a quietness about this town that was less obvious then in Thimphu. We drove to our new resort hotel the ………… It was located among a series of buildings and near a lumber mill. The road was rutted and very bumpy. I kept thinking what kind of “resort” could be in this location. Well, much to my surprise it was a series of cottages and a large central building at the end of the road. White with the decorations and the surprise for me was a scattering of bright, orange and yellow California poppies just outside our cottage door.

Our room was spacious with white walls and large circular patterns painted around the room. The floor was covered with a dark blue carpet which made the room look lush and welcoming. The beds were huge and very comfortable. All in all we were very pleased at these accommodations.
Dinner would be served buffet style at 7 as would breakfast in the morning.
It was at this point that we got back in the van and headed for the Paro Dzong. As we rode we were told this is the monastery perched high up on a hill and is a 2 and a half hour walk up a very steep mountain. I decided to remain at the bottom and my partner and our guide took the challenge and started up the hill. I spent a little over an hour watching the tourists come down from their hike and heard the thrilled voices telling what a magnificent experience it had been. I was just about to wish I had gone too when a land rover came into the parking area carrying our host, Karma. He delivered our passports first off and we chatted for a minutes and then we went back to the hotel for conversation and a drink, leaving Joe to bring the climbers back.
As the dinner hour approach and it was coming up to 6 PM I was a bit worried as it was getting dark. But the group returned with such enthusiastic comments that one soon forgot the concern. The climbers were the last two into the monastery and they were awed by the four huge statues of Buddha at the end of the main building. There was only a monk and a security guard and no other tourists. For the two of them it was a memorable experience and one that they still talk about today.
The trail, which has been refurbished with steps in many places, is arduous and my partner had very sore legs in the morning. Until the trail was redone many tourists lost their lives falling as the steep trail is not made for everyone. Walking sticks help and as long as there is no rush, the climb is well worth it as my partner’s pictures tell.
It was a happy group for dinner and we sat and chatted afterwards in the dining room. Our host left late to drive back to another part of Bhutan so we said our thank yous and goodbyes and proceeded to get our bags together for our flight back to Kathmandu the next day.
Aside from some slowdowns at the airport, both coming and going, the trip was amazing and the rewards were great. Bhutan is an experience more than a tour and you feel it inside your soul as you move through this beautiful and serene country. Everyone should visit at least once and having done that there will always be a little tug inside of you that says to you, “Do it again!”

Bhutan travel note

It is considerably smaller than Nepal with an overall population of about 650,000 people. It is a monarchy with a newly elected king in November. He is Bhutan’s 5th king and his father, King Four (easier to say that then his name which I could neither spell nor pronounce!), decided to let 60% of the country remain in a natural state. This was so successful that now 80% of Bhutan is in its natural state which means that the wildlife and flora are simply outstanding!

Architecture is uniform and beautiful. All houses are of a similar style and there are NO western type buildings. Even the newest buildings retain the Bhutanese flavor. Streams are clear and the roads are paved. There is electricity 24/7, the food is good and the people are very friendly.

The main tourists attractions are religious and the great “dzongs” or monasteries, cling to hillsides or dominate the towns and cities. In Thimpu you have a wonderful art school where painting, sculpting, embroidery, sewing, metal working, and drawing are taught. This is a really remarkable place and the students learn while hundreds of tourists pass through their classrooms taking pictures and chattering. A truly remarkable place! In addition there is a great textile museum with a marvelous video and an exhibit of ancient to modern textiles, all hand woven. You can see weavers at work and also buy from their museum store (naturally). In Paro, where you land, there is not as much to see but here there is the great Takinsang Dzong which is reached after a 2 and a half hour climb. Once there you can be blessed by a monk and take remarkable pictures standing atop this high mountain aerie.

In writing this I am back in these places, but I have to add some of the drawbacks in visiting this beautiful country. The government regulates the number of tourists who enter the country and we ask that if you are going to go to Bhutan you give us and our representatives in Bhutan at least 3 to 4 weeks to obtain your Visa. You can access Bhutan from several airports. DRUK Air, Bhutan’s only airline and only airline into the country, flies daily out of Bangkok and twice a week from Delhi to Kathmandu to Paro.

The planes are new, AirBus 319, and extremely clean. Your trip into Bhutan must be paid in full at around $200USD a day or more, depending on what you choose to do.. That may seem high, but that price includes hotel, a car and driver, a guide and three meals a day, and also all entrance fees to monasteries and other places.Our representative in Bhutan provides excellent people and nice vehicles also. The other drawback is that you cannot pay with a credit card anywhere and there are no ATM machines to ease that difficulty. We spoke to the Minister of Tourism and he indicated they are working on it, but nothing yet. Lastly, immigration at the airport is slow and very frustrating. No computers and they take about 5 to 8 minutes per person. We spent 80 minutes in line and the flight from Kathmandu was only 55 minutes.

Lawrence Brown.

info(at)himalayandreamz.com