Seeking Shangri-La

My associate Ram Chhetri of Himalayan Dreams, in Kathmandu, Nepal and myself boarded a DRUK Airline flight from New Delhi to Paro, Bhutan. DRUK, meaning dragon in Bhutanese, is Bhutan’s state-owned airlines. Not knowing what to expect we were pleasantly surprise to be on board a brand new AirBus plane for the 55 minute flight to Paro, Bhutan.

The 55 minute flight carries one along the majestic peaks that sprawl across northern Nepal, with the granddaddy of them all, Mt. Everest, poking its head up above the clouds. On the inbound flight we found ourselves sitting on the left side of the plane away from the spectacular scenery. It was something we remedied coming back to Kathmandu on our return. The DRUK pilots make sure that the route carries the plane along this wonderful sight and many cameras click as the plane flies along these majestic mountains.

Paro, Bhutan’s second largest city, lies stretched along a valley high up in the Himalayas. The airport, classified as the 4th most beautiful in the world, has a very short runway. Because of this, jets must have a short landing ability. This was evidenced as we landed and the plane braked dramatically hard immediately on contact with the runway. Paro Airport has no instrument landing equipment, therefore for takeoff or landing the pilots must have visual contact with the runway and the surrounding mountains. Consequently, if there are clouds, fog, or rain and the visibility is limited, the flights will neither take off nor land!

Once on the ground, it is amazing how quickly deplaning passengers take out cameras and begin taking pictures of the airport buildings. Built in strict, Bhutanese style with whitewashed sides and elaborately painted and decorated eaves, window sashes and doorways the buildings stand out in beautiful contrast to the green mountains that soar up on each side of the airport.

An initial difficulty occurred upon walking into the elaborately decorated interior halls of the airport. The euphoria of a 55 minute plane ride, the touchdown and the beautiful airport were quickly lost as one plane load of tourists formed into 4 lines: one for Bhutanese citizens and SAARC members (South Asian Association of Regional Cooperation), one for diplomats, and 2 lines for deplaning tourists. The lines would have been fine, but it soon became apparent that here was a massive slowdown. Like the airport without modern instrument landing equipment, there were NO computers for checking on passengers and Visas and it all had to be done by hand. It took my associate and me over an hour to get through, and we were the last two out of the custom’s lines. The only positive was that we had no trouble identifying our luggage as they were the only two on the baggage carousel!

At this point our major worry was that our guide and driver would have given up and left. But, to our delight, our guide and driver were there and waiting patiently for us to leave the airport. Our guide was an experienced 20 year old girl, and she made a wonderful guide and traveling companion for the next 4 days. Her name was soon shortened by us to Ashley or Ash. Our driver, who’s English was limited, became Joe and his expert driving of mountain roads made our travels even more enjoyable.
Here the trip began and we were about to experience the awesome beauty and magnificent atmosphere that is Bhutan.

Our drive out of Paro took us over the mountains along well tended roads, with little traffic. This fact of well-paved roads and little traffic was not lost on my associate who was accustomed to the poorly maintained roads and thunderous traffic of Kathmandu.

The other aspect of the trip over the mountains was the quiet compared to Kathmandu. No honking horns or revving motorbikes; the calm, quiet roads winding along the hillsides toward the capitol of Thimphu seemed worlds away from almost anywhere.

As we wound along the sides of mountains we could look to our left and watch a beautifully clean river moving in a seemingly leisurely direction below the road. On occasion there would be a local woman selling fresh asparagus, a fact I noted my wife would have caused us to stop. After about an hour’s drive we entered a great “Y” shaped valley that is the location of Thimphu, capitol of Bhutan.

First impressions usually remain with you and at this point I remember vividly thinking:
There are no skyscrapers! There are no buildings over about 5 or 6 stories high! I am not aware of great cranes thrusting their massive heads into the sky announcing the creation of some megalithic structure soon to follow. The architecture is unique, Bhutanese and lovely to look at. This impression would remain as the style of Bhutan is the same throughout the country. And as I was soon to learn, there were a few more surprises that Bhutan was about to offer up to a first time tourist!
It was interesting to watch Thimphu rise up from the valley floor as we descended from the mountain road. The river we had been following from our mountain road also rose to meet us and we were soon moving along a well-paved road into the heart of downtown Thimphu, the river tumbling merrily along beside the road.
Again, first impressions: Bhutanese architecture, white walls and gaily painted eaves and window frames, and a cantilever bridge that spanned the river, it too built in Bhutanese white and painted with bright colors and many prayer flags fluttering in the early afternoon breeze. A great Dzong, or fortress, seemed to rise up out of the ground. A beautiful sight and we were told it was a former palace that had been converted into a government building.
We were told that we would be dropped off at our hotel and given some time to rest before lunch. The hotel, right on the main street, was an older hotel and we had rooms on the fourth floor! No elevators and steep stairways to climb. As a senior citizen it was not for me, but we dutifully took to our room and sat quite quietly surveying the room. It was clean and tidy. Only problem was the long climb to get there and we were up very high in elevation. This worked for one night but our host, Karma, was very quick to accommodate our request and we were moved the next day to a very nice hotel, the Jhumolhari. We had a second floor room and all the amenities of a large, western hotel. Still no elevators, but this time on the second floor and more gently spaced stairs, there was no problem.
Our lunch was on the second floor around the corner at a place called Rosy’s. Up a flight of stairs and into a delightful restaurant. Tablecloths and cloth napkins graced each table with a vase of flowers in the center. One could order a la carte or have the buffet lunch which we chose to do. The food was good and accompanied by a very cold Bhutanese beer the luncheon was a great success. So much so that we ate there for dinner that night being left on our own.
After lunch our guide Ashika (Ashley) had the driver take us to the top of a very high mountain. We left our van and climbed even higher for a bird’s eye view of the capitol. It stretched much like Paro along a “Y” shaped valley. The only difference was more buildings, more growth and this wonderful air of serenity you feel almost all of the time. It was spectacular and we took many pictures as the hill had sparse pine trees, prayer flags and a magnificent view.

We drove halfway down the hill and stopped at the World Wildlife Federation (WWF) preserve for Bhutan’s national animal, the Takin. It is an interesting looking animal much like a cross between a goat and a yak! There is a story that a mad monk ate a goat and a yak, put the bones back together and you have a Takin! They thrive more in the colder climates but these are carefully tended in a reserve to preserve the animals along with both large and small deer. A walk around the compound is very interesting.

With our senses reeling, or mind filled with so many wonderful scenes, we ended our first day in Bhutan. We could not imagine what lay ahead for us on our second full day in this magical place.

Our second day began with a great breakfast in Rosy’s restaurant. We then joined our guide, Ashika and our driver, Joe, for a wonderful day of sightseeing around Thimphu. Our morning had started early and Ram and I wandered around the nearly deserted streets around 7 AM looking for a place to have a cup of coffee and a bite to eat. No luck. Thimphu is NOT geared to the western passion for early morning anything!

Our tour began at the textile museum. Here, on display, are the wonderful woven clothes of former kings and dignitaries. Manikins are dressed in the beautiful woven textiles, some over 100 years old. Then, to our surprise we were able to watch as weavers. Both men and women sat at ancient looms and wove the intricate and beautiful designs into fabric for clothes, purses and table runners. A gift shop was available also to purchase the beautiful works. From here we went just a few blocks and found ourselves at an art school. Here in actively running classrooms, tourists came through in large and small groups, taking pictures and just milling about. The classes are being taught and the students are working on such projects as sculpting, embroidery, sewing, metal work, design, and painting. As the tourists milled about watching, taking pictures, asking questions the students seemed un-phased by all the commotion. How they achieve such wonderful works of art is amazing! As with the textile museum there is a store that sells the art of the students to tourists and Bhutanese alike. Most striking, for me, was the fact that men and women, boys and girls were in all of the classes. It was told to me that in the past a man was not considered educated if he could not do some form of sewing!

Like all good tour guides Ashika saw to it that I was given the opportunity to shop at a handicraft store. It was fun and the myriad of handicrafts is really astonishing. There are many such stores throughout Thimphu, and there was even a woman selling her woven goods at the Takin national preserve!
Our next stop was a museum dedicated to Bhutanese farming and the way of life a hundred years ago. Most fascinating was the arrangement of a house. The smaller windows were put on the lower floor of the house. The larger windows on the upper floor are there to catch the cooler breezes. On the top was a drying floor under the roof for drying crops and fodder for animals. Even 100 years ago the Bhutanese architectural style was there, even as it is down to today.

Next was a visit to the Ministry of Medicinal Plants. Here are doctors who deal with herbal medications and it is here that many are grown and cultivated for use in Bhutan and around the world. A museum offers examples and information on many, many plants and it is an interesting place to see. There are great prayer wheels in the courtyard and many rooms for patients to be seen and treated by the doctors. There is a small fee to see the museum.

With a break for lunch, we began again. This time we found ourselves in a paper making factory. Here, wood was burned, blackened bark removed and the pulp was then shredded and mixed with water to form a base for the paper. Individual sheets are created by hand and then dried. Colors can be added and there were women pulling strips of paper into a cord like object to be used as handles on bags. I had to purchase some of this paper as it was fascinating to watch how they created the paper and then turned them into articles for sale. The habitual gift shop was there also!

Our next stop was a metal making factory. Bhutan is noted for its metal work and we found men scattered around the grounds grinding and polishing metal objects. There was not the interest in us, as in the other factories, and we found this to be the least satisfactory stop of the day. Also, no gift shop, so neither of us was tempted to buy anything!

The last two stops were dictated by me. As we approached the city from Paro I had noticed a cantilevered bridge across the river that winds through town. It was a bit back up the highway, but our guide and driver took us immediately to a point where we could cross the road and get down to the bridge. It was a wonderful looking span with two massive end towers on either side of the river. Across the river cantilevered beams moved out until they met in the center. The bridge was covered and of course the painted designs were there too. Pray flags fluttered from the bridge and groups of young people out of school crossed the bridge to newer homes across the river.

Because I was so taken with the Bhutanese manner of dress I decided I had to have one of the wonderful ghos that all the men wear. So, telling Ashika what I wanted she marched us off to a fabric store for me to pick out the fabric I wanted. Well it got to be a joke as I picked up the color I wanted and then asked how many yards would it take. Ashika said about three yards…the fabric lady said 4! So with 4 yards of cloth I was then told I had to buy a belt. The belt, beautifully hand woven, is used to hold the gho together and it creates, what I was told is the world’s largest pocket! Since there are no pockets everything goes into the front of the gho. And yes, it is true: it creates the world’s largest pocket. Then it was off to the tailor, who measured me and seemed to think perhaps there wasn’t enough fabric. By this time, I was feeling I needed a crash diet or some such thing and although I am not the slim youth I once was, I didn’t consider myself “fat” until then. However, buying the long, white cuffs and being assured I could have it in the morning, I decided I would just be happy with myself and wear the gho, all 4 yards and accessories!

That evening we were joined by our host, Karma, for dinner at the Jhumolhari. We had a great meal and Karma told us we were leaving in the morning and going to Punakha, a 6 hour drive from the capitol through the mountains. Neither Ram nor I could imagine the next great adventure that lay before us.

As the third day began we traded our delightful young guide Ashika, for Karma, our host. Along with our driver, Joe, we proceeded to leave Thimphu and head up into the mountains. Almost immediately we stopped to look at a fully restored 16th Century fort, perched on a promontory overlooking the river. It boasted the whitewashed walls and colorful painting so indicative of the Bhutanese style. The building now houses a ministry of some sort. Here is a perfect example of preservation, conservation, and an imaginative way to keep Bhutan’s past alive.

As I think of the four lane freeway across the Sierra Nevada Mountains, it is difficult to imagine the small, narrow two lane road that winds up and around, over and down the steep hillsides of Bhutan. . Mountain streams rush down toward the road, usually plunging beneath the road and with a small temple or shrine built just beside the water. In addition to the sound of the water the air is filled with the calls of hundreds of birds that live in the vast forested areas of the country. 80% preserved and untouched, these forested hills with their majestic growth of trees , ferns, and rhododendrons fill ones’ senses with the palette of the hundreds of shades of green that are surrounding the van on both sides of the road.

Our drive continued along the mountain road, stopping once for a government inspection of documents and passing few cars in either direction. At last we approached the summit at Dochu-La Pass. Here, at the top, stands a new Dzong, or fortress. In addition there is a large shrine and the air almost pulsates with the fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags. As one looked across the valley, it was shrouded in great billowing clouds of white and gray and it was as if a stream of clouds was moving along the valley, obscuring the Himalayas from view. After a respite of about 20 minutes we climbed back into the van and started again. This time we were moving down the mountains. One surprise was rounding a curve in the road and there, munching calmly away, were three yaks, totally absorbed in their meal. A great photo op I thought!
About mid way along our 6 hour drive Karma had Joe stop the van and we three climbed out and proceeded to walk while Joe drove off down the mountain. Surprised, Karma indicated it was the only way to get the feel of the mountains and also to interrupt the long drive. He was so right! The air was clear and a soft breeze rustled the tree leaves while the hundreds of birds continued their wonderful serenade to whoever was around to listen. As the road began to even out and our descent was now approaching farming lands and a larger river we pulled over to watch an archery match beside the road!

Archery is the national sport and the ancient art of shooting arrows is not lost here in Bhutan. Dressed in colorful, Bhutanese clothes the men formed two teams. There was one team at one end of a long field and the other team opposite. Not close enough for anyone to be shot, but far enough to give the competitors a chance to show their ability with shooting the arrows great distances. There was much shouting and fun as the two teams shot arrows back and forth. Surprisingly, many of the men sported beautiful, new bows and it was obvious that each man took great pride in his ability and his equipment.

As we were approaching Punakha we turned off the road and drove up a well-tended drive to an obvious hotel. The grounds were immaculate and the building neat and tidy. Our host went in and we waited in the van. It was quickly noted that there was no room for us and so we descended into Punakha.

There is not much that meets the eye as one drives toward the small town. We turned into a rather empty lot and proceeded to a large complex of buildings right beside the river. It turned out to be a completely refurbished hotel. The rooms were large and the beds comfortable. All the amenities were there including a great buffet dinner and breakfast. The most appealing for me was to hear the river rushing along outside your room and seeing the fish jumping for their meals in the evening and early morning. Truly delightful!
In the afternoon we drove along the valley floor and came upon one of the surprises of the trip; the Punakha Dzong. This massive fortress is built between two rivers. One river called the male and the other the female. When I asked which was which I was told to listen and the noisy river was determined to be the female because it chattered. Sure enough one river was very quiet and flowed in a calm manner; the other flowed in constant noise and movement.

The monastery itself was stunning. Again the whitewashed walls and colorful carved wooden window frames and door frames. Along the quiet waters of the male river there were several trees bursting with beautiful purple flowers. Set against the white walls and the ornate carvings it made a truly wonderful sight to see.
More remarkable was the great bridge that spanned the river beside the monastery. A flood had washed the old bridge away and had carried much of the river bank with it making the channel wider then it had normally been. It would take architects in Europe to design the new bridge and of course it had to be cantilevered as it had been before. The problem lay with the widened distance. However, the challenge was met and a new bridge, looking as much a part of the scenery as ever, now spans the river to the monastery. It was interesting to note that monks, young and old, Bhutanese and tourists, along with the odd dog, uses the bridge to enter and leave the monastery. It had been a wonderful day climbing to Dochu La Pass and then descending down into the town of Punakha.

A great evening lay ahead of relaxation, good talk and a delightful environment to end our day.
Having an early breakfast at the hotel, we waited for our host to appear and start the trip back to Paro. Asika, who lives in Thimphu and Joe met us at the Jhumolhari where we waited for our host. A problem suddenly arose in that our Visa was set to expire that day and we were leaving in the morning of the very next day. And so an odyssey of sorts arose, causing our host to remain in Thimphu trying to correct the problem and us after a rather long delay started back to Paro along the same mountain road we had journeyed on before. The women selling asparagus were still there, but the archers were gone and the Dochu La Pass seemed quieter as we drove past and headed for Paro.

It was a quiet ride and I think both my partner and I were realizing what a spectacular time we had enjoyed and that it was fast coming to an end. One example of the honesty of the Bhutanese was the fixing of our Visas. We stopped a short distance out from Paro and a taxi going to Thimphu took our passports so they could be delivered and fixed in Thimphu. I was a bit nervous about this, but they were delivered safely!
We came into Paro around 2 and drove past the airport along a very dusty road. This soon terminated in a small, one vehicle bridge over a small stream. After that a paved road swept past a large college and into the town of Paro itself. Unlike Thimphu which seems to climb up and down hills and spreads out over the valley, Paro tends to be on the flat with several streets running parallel to each other. Many of the same shops line these streets with some elegant carvings decorating the storefronts and windows. There tended to be less color here, I thought, but the valley, as we drove out of town opened up into a beautiful countryside. The architecture was the same and there was a quietness about this town that was less obvious then in Thimphu. We drove to our new resort hotel the ………… It was located among a series of buildings and near a lumber mill. The road was rutted and very bumpy. I kept thinking what kind of “resort” could be in this location. Well, much to my surprise it was a series of cottages and a large central building at the end of the road. White with the decorations and the surprise for me was a scattering of bright, orange and yellow California poppies just outside our cottage door.

Our room was spacious with white walls and large circular patterns painted around the room. The floor was covered with a dark blue carpet which made the room look lush and welcoming. The beds were huge and very comfortable. All in all we were very pleased at these accommodations.
Dinner would be served buffet style at 7 as would breakfast in the morning.
It was at this point that we got back in the van and headed for the Paro Dzong. As we rode we were told this is the monastery perched high up on a hill and is a 2 and a half hour walk up a very steep mountain. I decided to remain at the bottom and my partner and our guide took the challenge and started up the hill. I spent a little over an hour watching the tourists come down from their hike and heard the thrilled voices telling what a magnificent experience it had been. I was just about to wish I had gone too when a land rover came into the parking area carrying our host, Karma. He delivered our passports first off and we chatted for a minutes and then we went back to the hotel for conversation and a drink, leaving Joe to bring the climbers back.
As the dinner hour approach and it was coming up to 6 PM I was a bit worried as it was getting dark. But the group returned with such enthusiastic comments that one soon forgot the concern. The climbers were the last two into the monastery and they were awed by the four huge statues of Buddha at the end of the main building. There was only a monk and a security guard and no other tourists. For the two of them it was a memorable experience and one that they still talk about today.
The trail, which has been refurbished with steps in many places, is arduous and my partner had very sore legs in the morning. Until the trail was redone many tourists lost their lives falling as the steep trail is not made for everyone. Walking sticks help and as long as there is no rush, the climb is well worth it as my partner’s pictures tell.
It was a happy group for dinner and we sat and chatted afterwards in the dining room. Our host left late to drive back to another part of Bhutan so we said our thank yous and goodbyes and proceeded to get our bags together for our flight back to Kathmandu the next day.
Aside from some slowdowns at the airport, both coming and going, the trip was amazing and the rewards were great. Bhutan is an experience more than a tour and you feel it inside your soul as you move through this beautiful and serene country. Everyone should visit at least once and having done that there will always be a little tug inside of you that says to you, “Do it again!”

Sikkim’s Route to Salvation (Rumtek Monastery)

The Rumtek monastery is the largest in Sikkim. The rituals and practices of the Karma Kagyu lineage are performed at this monastery. This beautiful monastery is situated at a distance of about 24 km from Gangtok.  A drive of about 1 hour across the country side of Gangtok to the south east will take you to the Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre. The monastery was originally built in the 16th century by the 9th Karmapa, Wangchuk Dorje but massive construction work began only in 1960. When the 16th Karmapa, Gyalwa Karmapa fled from Tibet after the Chinese Cultural Revolution, he stayed for sometime in Bhutan after finally being invited by the Choegyal (King), Tashi Namgyal to Sikkim. Gyalwa Karmapa, who was incidentally the 16th Karmapa, chose to reside at Rumtek. Hence the monastery was built in the style of the Kagyupa monastery in Tsurpu, Tibet.  The construction work took three years to complete. The monastery holds a lot of religious artifacts and scriptures. At short distance from the Dharma Chakra Centre, lies the old Rumtek monastery built by the 9th Karmapa in 1730.

Today the monastery hosts various rituals and events. The two most important among all are held during the summer and the winter. The first one is held in the fourth month of the Tibetan Lunar Calendar. This event can either be the Guru Rimpoche or the Vajrakilaya Drupchen (great sadhana practice retreat) take place. This event takes place for 10 days. The tenth day is marked by the Lama dance which depicts the eight representations of Guru Rimpoche (Saint Padmasambhava). During the end of the Lunar Year, the monastery hosts another 10 day ritual which is commemorated in praise of the Mahakala. The Rumtek monastery is a fine specimen of Tibetan architecture. It is composed of a meticulous work of wood and metal. The main building is a massive three storey structure which has a wide assembly hall laid out. Just above the assembly halls are designed the living quarters of the Karmapas, and the top floor has a small stupa.

However Rumtek is surrounded by a conspiracy that has baffled many Buddhists and political leaders. After the death of the 16th Karmapa, there remained a void as to who would be the head of this monastery. Today, there are two candidates for the title of 17th Karmapa, Thaye Dorje and Orgyen Trinley.

Buddhist Tours

Nepal is certainly the most melodiously positioned country in the world, but there’s more to Nepal that just the amazing landscape and scenery. It’s one of the world’s most spiritual countries, religious beyond measure. This is a country which contains within itself the very length and breadth of Buddhism and serves as the base of all its principles. Its monasteries range from small chortens to massive stupas that dominate the skyline and history in equal measure.  In any itinerary proposed to you by a travel agent, Buddhist circuit is one where you reach across monasteries to discover Buddhism’s vast significance on man’s soul and his deeds and how it has affected the very core of a nation. Nepal is a country which is filled with legends, relics, stories and monasteries that are associated to Buddhism. Whether it be around the Kathmandu valley or due north at Tengboche, Buddhism has always laid the foundations of Nepal’s overwhelming aura, its goodness and its people’s amazing lifestyle. Therefore a Buddhist tour around Nepal is an absolute must. It is a trip that would provide one with a great mix of spirituality and fun at the same time.

This trip will take you across places like Namobuddha; a place which is revered as a site where kindness and mercy were both personified by the Buddha by offering his body to be eaten by a hungry Tigress. The truth about this trip is that it demarcates the sweep of human history with that of its spiritual perfection; the perfection of nirvana which has been achieved in history by man. We begin this trip from Boudhanath and then we move to places like Namobuddha and then onwards to Pharping and then takes you to Swyambhunath up above the valley of Kathmandu. A lot of travelers who understand the values of Buddhism can’t stay away from the birthplace of Prince Siddhartha who later on became the Buddha (the enlightened one). There have been travelers right in the early ages beginning with Emperor Asoka himself who visited Lumbini. Then in the 5th century AD there was the Chinese traveler Fa Hein, who visited Lumbini and Huen Tsang in the 7th. The fascination for Lumbini lingers on. It is the place where the prince first discovered the four great truths and renounced his kingdom and later on enlightened the world. All of these places are incidentally not far to reach.

Life of a travel agent

..the challenges and privileges

The Privilege of Being a Travel Agent
The life of a travel agent is built on a set of ideas. Selling tours is just a small part. Countless hours are spent of strategizing, building and promoting a trip. And although the rewards are less, each effort is motivated by passion. Simply because understanding travel and its power to change the world is an overwhelming realization. When we comprehend that the strife that grips the world can be lessened or cured by appreciating the diversity of faiths, cultures and the world in general, creating journeys is an honor; a rare privilege that only a few enjoy. Having considered that greater vision which almost all travel agents live with, we do all we can to perfect this craft, simply because we love the very idea of travel.

Travel Agents are restless beings. We constantly look for new ways to develop our approach to tourism and to perfectly adapt to the huge amount of tourist influx all around the world. Sometimes it is a daunting job and endless hours are spent understanding and carving out every detail with precision.

This meticulous job gets to most of us sometimes. But the hard work pays off and our understanding of travel and the hard work it commands are overcome by a sense of respite as we see the spark and thrill among our travelers and realize how even by a small measure it has begun to change the world.
It is in such times, we often consider what makes a travel agent better to serve the greater purpose of creating journeys and understanding this great privilege more. There are among many trying qualities, a few which are worth dwelling upon.

Knowledge of Local Places

Knowledge of local places cannot be achieved without appreciating what is around you. One must understand the best thing about a destination. It varies with places but a greater understanding of local places is of utmost importance. This will immerse the traveler with sensitivity for different cultures. You haven’t traveled well if you haven’t understood the local culture and it’s enriching essence. That is why a good travel agent must be able to transfer the same sense of appreciation to a traveler. But this is a tedious process which involves research, constant updates and knowledge of cultures, anthropology, history and sometimes architecture too. However hard work pays off and this is evident on the faces of all the travelers who are in your hands. Traveling is all about seeing and learning and it’s a privilege to be the source of that enriching travel experience.
Personal Attention
Each traveler is special. He/she deserves that special attention and care. Like all businesses a travel operator must think of a client’s benefits before he can calculate his own profits. One must also understand the amount of planning, the funds, and the continuous desire that a traveler considers before embarking on a journey. And he/she travels miles to be in the place where he/she always wanted to be. Personal attention, a sense of care and an allowance for comfort cannot be undermined during a trip. These are traits of hospitality that says a lot about how much you appreciate travelers and this industry. It is in a profound way, a belief in care, understanding and the entire idea of travel. This is why you receive repeat travelers.

Experience
One cannot become a travel agent without some experience. Granted, everyone is a first timer once. But this is a job that requires time, patience and research. More travel agents have spent decades in this industry and know how to conduct tours like the back of their hands. And that is what travelers seek when they book a tour. Sometimes travel agents get a large group of travelers. Providing each one with personal attention and incase of problems during a trek or an expedition could prove to be hazardous. And unexpected occurrences cannot be overlooked. Political turmoil, flight delays, accidents etc could very well be part of travel. During such situations, one can count on nothing other than pure experience.

Infrastructure
Proper infrastructure is important to manage and organize holiday packages. Good Infrastructure is beneficial for strenuous tours which are sometimes very demanding especially in the Himalayas. Focus must be made on taking the hassles and tedium out of travelling for a traveler, so that he/she may enjoy everything around with a carefree mind. Right from Airport pickups to hotels, transports and until departures, travelers must be taken care of in a stress free environment. This can happen only when you have the right infrastructure. Developing infrastructure too, takes a lot of time and effort with careful planning. A travel agent is incomplete without proper infrastructure.

Expertise
Expertise comes from hiring the best staff and it also comes from experience in the field of travel. Expertise helps take out all the hassles of a journey from the mind of a traveler; simply because with expertise by the side of a travel agent, any problem and any hindrance can be solved immediately. Expertise also ensures the safety of a traveler which is imperative. One must have tour leaders who are all trained in first aid and crisis management. Whilst trekking food preparation and hygiene must be given top priority. Right from the initial correspondence, booking, conducting tours and departure, expertise will be appreciated and choosing the right personnel for the right job is key to the success of a travel agent.

Responsible Travel
Responsible Travel/Tourism comes from loving the idea of Travel and understanding its impact on nature, ecology and local people. It is about appreciating many different cultures and nature itself and how we owe something to the things that give us pleasure. A good travel agent always arranges for travelers to connect in a way with local people and make them understand the economy and the ecology surrounding them. In a way Travel Agents must seek to minimize negative impacts of the environment and society and think of ways to raise the economic benefits of the local communities. Travel agents must be culturally sensitive and respect the impacts of relations between the tourists and the locals.

Guided by Greater Vision
Words like excellence, comfortable, luxury, affordable and exclusive are thrown about by travel agents with reckless abandon. Not a lot of travel agents talk about the other benefits of travel. But a few understand that what one travels for makes all the difference. All travel agents and the work they do must be guided by a greater vision. Visions vary of course but they must be based on a set of principles and ethics. Creating journeys is the best way to bring people closer to each other and that privilege must always be appreciated. Most agents believe in the great, sometimes transformative, always educational value of travel. We must always understand that traveling is the only way to cure the world from the hatred and differences that dominate our relationships.

Passion
Travel agents are most passionate about creating journeys and providing more than what a traveler normally expects during a trip. During a trip, the travel agent manages the details so that one can relish all the experience without any hassles or the need to research. Because research and hassles are already considered by the travel agent, trips become easy and pleasurable.

Creative Approach
Almost all travel agents sell similar trips. Well, because the routes are the same! However there are some trips that are unique to each travel agent. These are the ones that are meticulously planned and researched so that travelers can find something different each time they journey a destination. While some believe in adventure and some in practices that show more of culture, the unique trips are something that is closer to the heart of a travel agent who creates them. This creative approach while crafting journeys take a longer time and much harder work. But while this virtue is rare among travel agents, it ensures quality and passion.

Best Itinerary for You-Not the one we want to sell
A travel agent must sell an Itinerary that is best suited to a traveler and not the one that he wants to desperately sell someone. Understanding the needs and requirements of a traveler are of utmost importance in this business. This is done with research and knowing where a particular travel will enjoy the most. A travel agent must always consider an enquiry with detail and offer the best choices.

We face these challenges because we respect this privilege

www.himalyandreamz.com

Mustang tiji festival 2010

Mustang tiji festival 2010

Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang known as ‘Roof of the world’ northern Nepal surrounded on three sides by Chinese held Tibet, one of the oldest civilizations on earth, mediaeval world uniquely preserved from modern technology.

A land covered with small villages, ancient monasteries, friendly people and breathtaking scenery. Mustang’s wealth was derived from being a major trading hub on the Kali Gandaki / Thak Khola trade route between Tibet and Nepal, w hich reflects the rich Buddhist culture, history, laws and customs.

The Tiji festival is a three-day ritual known as “The chasing of the Demons” and it is centered around the Tiji myth. Tiji tells the story of a deity named Dorje Jono who must battle against his demon father to save the Kingdom of Mustang from destruction. The demon father wreaks havoc on Mustang by creating a water shortage which, in this extremely arid land, is the most precious life-sustaining resource. Dorje Jono eventually defeats the demon and banishes him from the land.

For more information Click here

Bhutan travel note

It is considerably smaller than Nepal with an overall population of about 650,000 people. It is a monarchy with a newly elected king in November. He is Bhutan’s 5th king and his father, King Four (easier to say that then his name which I could neither spell nor pronounce!), decided to let 60% of the country remain in a natural state. This was so successful that now 80% of Bhutan is in its natural state which means that the wildlife and flora are simply outstanding!

Architecture is uniform and beautiful. All houses are of a similar style and there are NO western type buildings. Even the newest buildings retain the Bhutanese flavor. Streams are clear and the roads are paved. There is electricity 24/7, the food is good and the people are very friendly.

The main tourists attractions are religious and the great “dzongs” or monasteries, cling to hillsides or dominate the towns and cities. In Thimpu you have a wonderful art school where painting, sculpting, embroidery, sewing, metal working, and drawing are taught. This is a really remarkable place and the students learn while hundreds of tourists pass through their classrooms taking pictures and chattering. A truly remarkable place! In addition there is a great textile museum with a marvelous video and an exhibit of ancient to modern textiles, all hand woven. You can see weavers at work and also buy from their museum store (naturally). In Paro, where you land, there is not as much to see but here there is the great Takinsang Dzong which is reached after a 2 and a half hour climb. Once there you can be blessed by a monk and take remarkable pictures standing atop this high mountain aerie.

In writing this I am back in these places, but I have to add some of the drawbacks in visiting this beautiful country. The government regulates the number of tourists who enter the country and we ask that if you are going to go to Bhutan you give us and our representatives in Bhutan at least 3 to 4 weeks to obtain your Visa. You can access Bhutan from several airports. DRUK Air, Bhutan’s only airline and only airline into the country, flies daily out of Bangkok and twice a week from Delhi to Kathmandu to Paro.

The planes are new, AirBus 319, and extremely clean. Your trip into Bhutan must be paid in full at around $200USD a day or more, depending on what you choose to do.. That may seem high, but that price includes hotel, a car and driver, a guide and three meals a day, and also all entrance fees to monasteries and other places.Our representative in Bhutan provides excellent people and nice vehicles also. The other drawback is that you cannot pay with a credit card anywhere and there are no ATM machines to ease that difficulty. We spoke to the Minister of Tourism and he indicated they are working on it, but nothing yet. Lastly, immigration at the airport is slow and very frustrating. No computers and they take about 5 to 8 minutes per person. We spent 80 minutes in line and the flight from Kathmandu was only 55 minutes.

Lawrence Brown.

info(at)himalayandreamz.com

Glimpses of Patan and Living with the Gods!

Glimpses of Patan and Living with the Gods
By Pradeep Rai-www.ecs.com.np

If you subscribe to the myth that Patan is a small ancient place far from the allure that Kathmandu en joys, take a glance at the all the old yet beautiful monuments around it. Granted, some people don’t have a taste for history, nor architecture or spirituality, but most of us are enthralled and stimulated by the way this city was built. Its 2000 year old temples and medieval improvisations rouse an inherent curiosity within us. With its head in the busy streets of Lagankhel and its feet in main land Kathmandu, the precipitous ancient city of Patan has long been dubbed by illustrious connoisseurs or art as the most spectacular amalgamation of architectural finesse. Patan’s presence as a city alive with vibrant devotees to myriad Hindu and Buddhist temples has acted as a muse to incalculable artists and writers, and along with its narrow alleyways of ancient brick masonry connecting hill top villages and the flowing Bagmati River, it has also been successful at enticing a rather good flock of tourists for decades.

The ancient city of Patan, also called Lalitpur and Yala, lies five kilometers southeast of Kathmandu. Patan stretches across two intersecting axes—to the north stands Patan’s Durbar Square and the Golden and Kumbeshwar temples and to the west is the main city of Kathmandu. The bustling southern street runs past the Machhendranath temple and the Lagankhel bus park, while the eastern road skirts the Mahabuddha temple. There are four famous stupas built by the emperor Ashoka in 250 BC, one each at the four corners of the city. Often called the most Newari city in the whole Kathmandu Valley, Patan is a vibrant mélange of cultures, and with a host of funky little cafes and restaurants, it becomes perfect for creative ramblings. There is the Patan Palace, which was home to all the kings of Patan, now a museum displaying ancient artifacts and relics. The Patan Museum Board, established in 1996, is responsible for its maintenance.

Many scholars believe (and many disagree) that at the turn of the 2nd century AD, a Kirat king by the name of Yalamber built a palace in the then secluded small city of Patan on the bank of the sacred Bagmati, at the foot of the place where the Durbar square stands now. He transformed it into his capital and named it after him—Yala. About 400 years later when the Licchavis came into power, massive construction work began. The significant emergence of Patan as a city of commerce, ideas, and culture was undeniably the Licchavis’ supreme achievement. Patan remained a hugely important channel until the valley capital was shifted to Kathmandu with the arrival of King Prithivi Narayan Shah. As the new city of Kathmandu looks to the outside world and begins its historic reacquaintance, it falls a shade new for it never saw the historical glory days that Patan did.

For many, the road to Patan is recounting great history lesson, a persuasive crash course in culture and religion. Legend has it that an idol of the god Rato Machhendranath was brought to the Kathmandu valley from Kamaru Kamachhya, in Assam, India, by three people representing three kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley, Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan, in order to bring rainfall to overcome the worst drought affecting the valley. One of them, a devoted farmer named Lalit carried the idol all the way and established it near Patan. It is believed that Lalitpur was named after the farmer. And as it happens, for a daily fascination in the picturesque contrasts so cherished by snooping travelers, a little folklore adds more spice.

Patan derives its rich culture not from the temples but from the parade of regal powers who ruled its corners for the past two millennia. In Patan Durbar Square, the beautiful statue of King Yog Narendra Malla with a snake canopy and a golden bird on top still remains the underscore of Patan, mysteriously hiding a million stories and myths within it. Yog Narendra ruled Patan between 1684AD and 1705AD. During this period he added many structures to the city. He built the two sattals (rest places) just before the stone stairs leading to the stone water spouts (Manga Hiti), and also the Bhimsen temple.

The snake canopy statue of the king has an interesting story. During the reign of Yog Narendra, a farmer from Patan would go to the neighboring kingdom of Bhaktapur to sell vegetables. Out of pity for the farmer, the king of Bhaktapur bought all his vegetables thus becoming the regular daily customer. When the king of Patan heard about this, he conspired to use this to his advantage. He made a stone idol of ‘Ku Laxmi’, which would bring misfortune to Bhaktapur, and had it sold through the vegetable vendor.

The king of Bhaktapur now sought vengeance and asked the King of Patan if they could add a temple to the beautiful Patan Durbar Square. On receiving confirmation, the ‘Nisantaneshwor’ Mahadev Temple was built to make sure that Patan would not have an heir to the throne. As a result King Yog Narendra Malla had 30 wives but no son to succeed him. The Nisantaneshwor temple still stands in the Durbar Square, but it is never worshiped. Before Yog Narendra left his throne, he built a bronze statue and had a golden bird atop it. He told his people that they should believe that he lives, until the bird flies to heaven. One can still see the statue in Durbar Square standing magnificently as if to supervise a visit which some believe is no less than a divine coincidence.

In Patan’s Durbar Square, the early yet incessantly populated place is a city of its own, copiously bequeathed with superb temples, a palace of the Malla era, a giant bathhouse, and fine wooden carvings, a testament to the consummate dexterity of medieval Newari artisans. Within the vicinity of the square lies the beautiful Krishna Mandir. This three-storied stone temple was built by King Siddhi Narasingha Malla in the 16th century AD. Important scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana epics have been carved in its friezes and the temple houses 21 spires known as the Chyasin Deval. The main idol is on the first floor. In front of the Krishna temple, atop a high stone-pedestal, there is a gilded statue of Garuda, half man, half bird, the vehicle of Lord Vishnu. His wings are slightly outspread and he kneels with hands folded as if in a prayer. The two wings signify truth and knowledge respectively meaning to say that God exists in the presence of truth and knowledge. One of the finest specimens of Nepalese temple craft, the Krishna Mandir lures one with unstinting splendor, minute carvings, and a sense of purity that has bent to many winds, yet has remained deeply and valiantly rooted. The Durbar Square is bejeweled by the Bhimsen Temple, Manga Hiti, Vishwanath Temple, Jagatnarayan Temple and the Golden Temple.

There isn’t a real religious center any more than there is a real hangout spot. But if there were, it would be in Patan. Relatively unperturbed by the waves of invasion that swept through and transformed Kathmandu, Patan is the depository of medieval culture that underlies the spiritual reality of Nepal. It hosts a classic collection of temples, a large ensemble of spectacular structures devoted to the gods, both in and around it. The Hiranya Varna Mahavibar is a three-storeyed golden pagoda temple built in the 12th century AD by King Bhaskar Varma. It stands just outside the vicinity of the Durbar square. A golden icon of Lord Buddha and a huge prayer wheel stand on the pedestal of the upper portion of the vihar and elaborate decorative patterns are engraved on its outer walls. Walking through shops with handicrafts on display, mysterious old brick houses with narrow doors, gracious old men sitting beside temples, takes you to a five-storied pagoda temple which at a moment makes one relish a culture on the upswing. This one is the Kumbeshwar temple built by King Jayasthiti Malla in 1422AD. The courtyard houses a natural spring that forms a large pond and is opened on the eve of Janai Poornima, the festival of the sacred thread on the full moon day of August, when ritual bathing takes place every year.

Another of the significant monuments in Patan is the Mahabuddha temple, a masterpiece of brick and tile. Built by Abhaya Raj, a priest of Patan, every single brick portrays a tiny icon of Buddha. There are an astonishing nine thousand bricks in total. There is also the temple of Machhendranath, which stands in the middle of a wide quadrangle at the outer perimeter of the market place.

These temples reserve their greatest secrets for those who attain an understanding and value of them. There is something divine and supremely pure about visiting them, a gift that will always remain. We will never find out descriptions of divine beauty, but Patan fills one with cerebral images of phenomenal monuments, nights ablaze with prayer chants, and an oceanic army of pigeons which could humble you before its majesty and noble splendor. These are the loftiest creations ever raised by the hands of man, the most intelligent monuments of the human spirit and a bold sink into irrelevance by comparison. There stands Patan on a par with the world’s best, with its astounding composition of temples, palaces, and traditional alleys, with elevated statues of gods rising above the dust and a long procession of emperors marching along through their histories.

New tourism policy Pragmatic approach counts.

Vijay Shrestha- The Himalayan Times Daily.
It is essential that we match resources with results, cost with revenues and efforts with outcomes.

The government has come up with a draft tourism policy. The new policy in the making is relevant in the context of the new governance environment of the country. Tourism objectives can be measurably related to GDP, total arrivals, international/regional or product wise market share, foreign exchange earning, employment generation, infrastructure development,
etc. But the final bottom line should be linked to the overall national goals. The draft has enumerated nine products for promotion and resource allocation. I have a firm view that our scarce resources should be allocated in high-return-oriented products in which we have comparative strengths.
For example, adventure tourism, culture and religious tourism, are our core strength areas, where allocating our resources should create more results than investing in educational tourism, or medical tourism. Any policy or strategy, however good, will not yield results unless they are effectively implemented. A strategy should have an appropriate organisational structure. For the effective implementation of the policy, it is imperative that there is a new responsibility management system. Hence, responsibility officers are to be named, responsibilities defined and the performance evaluation of the responsibility officers made on the basis of their performance.Various I/NGOs, have been involved in Nepal’s various development areas, such as poverty reduction, education, health, women development, empowerment of the underprivileged, and microfinance. The involvement of the organisations
at the grass roots level can do much to augment the tourism industry potential.
New products and market development will be critical factors for the achievement of the draft policy objectives. By developing new products, Nepali tourism can achieve greater volumes from the current tourism markets and effectively intrude new markets. It is important that the new policy in the making should address this issue by providing for incentives to tour operators for substantial product development and new marketing initiatives. When developing new products, it is important to ensure their effectiveness from customer perspective as well as from the local beneficiaries. For marketing purposes, e-initiatives can be particularly relevant for us.
Services of tourist service points such as airports, heritage sites, trekking sites, immigration points are critical for repeated visits. They should be best managed with service benchmarking. It is essential that we match resources with results, cost with revenues and efforts with outcomes.
For the target arrivals, we must have sufficient infrastructure in place. For development of new infrastructure, it is necessary to provide entrepreneurs with fiscal, monetary and process incentives. The government should also have the provision of maintaining and developing heritage sites regularly. Accommodation capacity has decreased in recent years with the closure of a number of hotels. Accommodation capacity will be a key constraint factor in the future.
To be competitive and to be in a position to achieve the policy objectives, it is also important for us to have productive human resources in all the related sub-sectors, including all tourist service points such as immigration, tour guiding, travel management, civil aviation, etc. On productive international sectors, there is a capacity crunch particularly during the high tourist season.
There is a need for a very liberal, continual policy of allowing international charter flights and flights under temporary operating permits. Similarly, the country must have a policy framework for air service agreement.
Aviation turbine fuel (ATF) in Nepal is possibly the most expensive in the whole world. The government must review the ATF pricing policy. ATF pricing for internal remote sector flights should be done for cost recovery only and VAT should be waived on the supply of ATF for such flights. For other domestic and international flights, ATF pricing has to be based on cost plus reasonable profit. This way, ATF prices will decrease substantially which will immensely contribute to the growth of international and internal air traffic due to consequential fare reduction. When there is a resource crunch, cooperation becomes important. We can collaborate with neighbouring countries as a move towards global marketing to promote tourism in our country.
Furthermore, the continuity of leadership is sine qua non for any organisation or a plan to be successful. For tourism to grow at a faster rate, we need leadership continuity in all related organisations in the sector, from the ministry to NAC, CAAN, Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) for a strategic period of time. This enables the continuity of the pursuit of the purpose, strategic implementation and achievement of the purpose, goals and objectives.

Shrestha is president of Airline Operators Association of Nepal

Meeting the God Regularly

Meeting the God Regularly
By Ashesh Maharjan- www.ecs.com.np

It is not quite possible to avoid visiting temples often when you live in a city like Kathmandu, well known as the ‘City of Temples’. It is said that at one point in history temples outnumbered houses in this place. Though we no more have the luxury of this claim, the density of the temples still awes tourists and natives alike. There are votive shrines scattered throughout in the city. We can find one within a stone’s throw in every direction. What is even more amazing is that these temples are never unattended, they always have at least have a few if not many visitors throughout the day.

People in Kathmandu, whether they know or admit it or not, are religious (or some say superstitious). They thank god for a meritorious day, and regret the sight of an empty gagri (a narrow-necked water vessel) that morning for an unfortunate day. And feelings like these drive most of the people regularly to the temples, at least once a week or, at most, several times a day. They don’t even realize how religious they are because that’s what they have been taught since childhood; it’s their way of life.

Some temples are visited frequently and some are not. Banglamukhi Mandir is one of the temples which is almost always has many devotees; but on Thursdays, the place is teeming with people. Thursdays, for many residents, has become synonymous with Banglamukhi. They believe that worshiping and offering burning incense, flowers and fruits to Banglamukhi Mai every week will make their wishes come true. A local woman of Patan in her weekly darshan (to pay respect) to Banglamukhi temple says “Banglamukhi Mai really made my wishes come true, my son now holds a US visa and all the credit goes to Banglamukhi Mai and Manakamana Mai. I’m sure going to offer something big to Manakamana Mai this year.” God really made her happy. Manakamana is another major Nepalese Hindu temple of wishes.

“I used to go to the temples just for the sake of going, a year or so ago,” says Prabin Sijhapati, a local of Bhaisipati, “but since my mother got sick and lost one of her kidneys, I’ve started to visit temples with a deep sense of faith and hope that god will look upon her.” Prabin is a very playful and amusing person and a converstionist, so nobody, including his best friend, would guess the anxiety he is facing. But when he enters the premises of a temple, he is a different person, very grave and filled with hopes. “I no more go to temples with an intention of flirting with girls,” he says, ending the conversation on a humorous note.
Some less religious people, or those who claim themselves to be less religious, visit temples as well. But they have different reasons (or excuses) to go each morning. A young local Newar of Patan says: “I don’t really believe in miracles, but I do visit temples every now and then when I walk past one, and I do have faith.” For almost all, temple-going is a way of life. Some pay their respects to god by visiting temples during morning walks or on the way to or back from work or school.

As people here get old, they lean towards god even more and take on religious quests. They believe that this leads them to salvation. Some religious sites are as popular among youngsters as they are with the old folks. One of them is Krishna Mandir. Though this temple is mostly visited once a year during Krishnastami, the temple complex is always full of youngsters evenings and often until late at night. It’s their hang out. “After a day of college and work I come here with my friends to feel loosened,” one said. “And to have tea, chat with friend and just watch people passing by,” his friend interjected. The large number of white plastic tea cups scattered all around the place suggests the great popularity of the local tea shop. Basantapur is another similar place often crowded with people each evening; but by removing the itinerant street-vendors lately, it has become a bit less crowded.

The worship of one’s kul deuta (ancestral god) is considered important in Nepalese culture. This practice dates back to the Kirat Period (from about 900 .C to 300 AD). Kirat religion, based on fact, love, respect, appreciation and harmony, realized that all of these five principles of life were taught to them by their ancestors. This led them to start worshiping their ancestors, who for them were the greatest of gods. Each family in Kathmandu has their own ancestral god. They visit the temple of their kul deuta every year to pay respect to their patrilineal forebears. The day long ritual, called dewali, is like a family gathering and a picnic at the same time. “All the prosperity, status, fortune, health and all the good things that can happen to a family are believed to be the asirvad (blessings) of our kul deuta,” said an elderly local of Patan when asked about this ritual.

Pashupatinath, the most famous and most holy Hindu temple of all, is visited by people on religious pilgrimage from all over the Indian sub-continent. This holy place, an abode for long-haired sadhus and agile monkeys, is most visited during Maha Shivaratri in February. Swayambhunath, the biggest of all Buddhist shrines on top of a hill west of Kathmandu city, is also most visited once a year during Buddha Purnima in May/June. Another popular temple is Lord Ganesha in Chovar, where every year during a month long mela (festival) in November, thousands of devotees climb all the way up the hill of Chovar to worship Lord Ganesha. Temples like Suryavinayak, Karyavinayak and Dakchinkali are also visited at least once a year by the inhabitants of the valley, but they don’t have a fixed date on which they are worshiped.

Meeting god regularly is the way of life of the Nepalese in Kathmandu. They have reasons to visit temples every now and then all round a year. It gas shaped the history and culture and, not least, the daily lives of the people in this holy valley.

Discover Bhutan - the last Shangri-La

Travel with us and discover the last SHANGRI-LA, the buddhist faith and the culture where Guru Rimpoche or another Shabdrung may have stopped to meditate. The place where prayers flags are even more common, fluttering on longs poles, they maintain constant communication with the heavens. Read more

Trekking to Annapurna